Concrete Grinding & Polishing.........Large or Small Jobs

Concrete Grinding and Polishing System from Gap Power

Edco Grinder Lineup
What is the difference between grinding concrete and polishing concrete?
      
Concrete grinding is a method employed to remove unwanted coatings or features from the concrete surface. It is, in essence, a preparatory step taken before undertaking any further processes. For instance, it is often used to eliminate old adhesives prior to installing tile, paint, epoxy, linoleum, or another type of flooring, including the process of concrete polishing. The primary goal of grinding is to restore the concrete surface to its original state after pouring and troweling.

Concrete polishing serves a different purpose, transforming the appearance of concrete to achieve a "shine." This enhancement is accomplished through the use of progressively finer diamond polishers until the desired aesthetic is attained. The process is finalized by "locking in" the shine with densifiers and sealants. Additionally, polishing can be followed by staining to create patterns, artwork, or company logos, amplifying the surface's visual appeal.

Can one machine do both grinding and polishing?
Indeed. A single machine can handle both tasks; you just need to remove the grinding attachments and replace them with polishing attachments. This transition is straightforward, requiring only a few minutes and basic tools.

Small Floors.
 
For spaces around 300 sq ft or less, Edco’s single and double-head concrete grinders are highly effective for preparing the concrete floor without a hefty price tag. Using diamond dots specifically matched to the type of concrete, these grinders facilitate the thorough removal of "dirty" concrete, making way for paints and epoxies. Strip Serts, which feature sharp carbide inserts on holders, are excellent for eliminating mastic-style coatings (such as glue and residue). Incorporating sand is essential for effectively handling mastic coatings with strip serts, as it collects the mastic, preventing it from adhering to the grinding head and inhibiting its performance. A practical test to determine if strip serts are suitable for your project is to try cutting the mastic with a utility knife or scraping it away with a putty knife; if you can do so, then strip serts on an Edco Grinder will be effective for your tasks.

Big Jobs.

When dealing with floors larger than 1000 sq ft, the Lavina Propane 25GX Planetary Grinder, paired with the electric Ermator Vacuum Kit, proves to be the ideal choice. This comprehensive grinding package is conveniently available in a 5x10 enclosed trailer, ready for use. Given the grinder's speed and weight, it is vital to utilize the free loaner Mohs Hardness test to assess your concrete and choose the appropriate diamond tooling bond.
A standard grinding process for a coating typically starts with 30 Grit diamonds, while dropping to 14 Grit may be necessary to create a more textured profile for industrial floor epoxies.

How Can I Remove Oil Stains From A Concrete Floor?

The Oil Remediation System from Ameripolish serves as a valuable addition to the preparation process, effectively removing oils to ensure optimal adhesion for paint coatings. In certain instances, like workshop floors, simply performing a 30 Grit grind and seal (without paint or epoxy) can effectively rejuvenate a floor, making it durable and easier to maintain.

What Can I Expect To Pay Per Square Foot To Grind A Concrete Floor?
 
For a basic diamond grind, the approximate cost per square foot (not including sealers or coatings) stands at $0.30/sq. ft. for 300 sq. ft. or $0.23/sq. ft. for 1000 sq. ft.

An example of a diamond grind applied to a shop floor with the inclusion of the Oil Remediation system, along with a heavy-duty sealer for a total of 1500 sq. ft., would be priced approximately at $0.87 per square foot, or $0.52 per square foot for 2500 sq. ft.

What Can The Lavina Machine Do?

The Lavina Grinding package also excels as a polishing system. To effectively polish an existing concrete floor, one typically begins with 30 Grit diamonds, mirroring the process for a standard grind before applying a coating. Subsequent steps involve utilizing 70 Grit and 120 Grit diamonds, followed by transitioning to 100 Grit pucks with Velcro backing, and ultimately progressing to polishing/honing with grits up to 800.

Most of the time you invest in polishing will be dedicated to the diamond tooling (30-120 Grit). It is crucial to meticulously complete each step, vacuuming or using an auto scrubber in between to eliminate any leftover grit from the prior phase. It’s also important to maintain a cautious pace, progressing only as quickly as the tooling or concrete allows. A good benchmark for speed is the presence of half an inch between the dust lines left by the grinder from the circular motion of the planetary foot.

Densifying Concrete.
 
Densifying the surface is a vital procedure to harden the concrete, enabling it to maintain the high level of shine generated through polishing. Densification is typically carried out around the 200 Grit stage. After thoroughly cleaning the surface, simply apply the densifier using a pump-style sprayer and allow it to dry for about 15 minutes.

Concrete Sealing After Polishing & Densifying.

Once you reach your desired shine, you should apply a high gloss sealer for maximum luster or opt for a heavy-duty sealer for enhanced durability. To finish, utilize a burnisher or burnishing pads on the Lavina grinder.

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For more information, please visit concrete diamond grinding pad supplier.

Additional reading:
ER Collet Basics - Things You Need to Know to Get Started
How to Choose Custom Metal Mesh Filters?
Why Choose a Depressed Center Grinding Wheel?

LIGOOMBA said:

That's a big difference! There is no way I will spend that kind of money! The HD by me wants 38.00 a day for the machine; it’s the floor buffer and 65.00 a day for the Diamabrush. If it's gonna be about 200.00 for me to do it, then I will do it myself. I'm already way over budget with this garage! My wife is ready to kill me! LOL! The floor was poured in early August. It looks like the sealer is already wearing out in lots of spots. I've been all over YouTube for techniques. It does not look that hard. I’ve seen some people put a bag of sand over the machine to weigh it down.

Click to expand...

In my quest to learn more about grinding, I came across this link. Sounds appropriate given the fact you plan to rent the same equipment from HD. Notice the part where they suggest you buy a hand grinder and disc pads for the edges around the stem wall. Apparently, the HD machine won't get those? The article uses Harbor Freight as their source for those tools, which isn't very expensive, but still something you need to plan.

Also, the article talks about renting a shroud (and possibly vacuum) to help control dust, as well as using a TSP after you are done to remove dust. Before I put any chemicals on the floor I would talk with the epoxy manufacturer you plan to use and ask for their advice to ensure you get the best bond.

http://allgaragefloors.com/how-to-grind-garage-floor/

Unfortunately, the article doesn't dive into time requirements for the work; however, it sounds like an all-day job according to the guys here. Maybe even 2 days for a shop your size.

We all have different expectations and budgets. I am on the fence myself about what to do, as I mentioned earlier. However, one thing I realize is prep is everything with epoxy floors. So, if I was going to splurge on something to ensure it was done right, the prep is where it would be. Plus, you have to determine what your own time is worth. Once you know all rental & miscellaneous material costs for DIY, then you can compare against a pro quote. If it's $500 more, is 8-16 hours of your own time worth more than that? Can you afford that? Theoretically, if you make $100/hr at work, you'd be better off working and paying a pro. If you make $10/hr at work, you'd probably be better off grinding yourself, assuming you can get the prep right so the life of the final epoxy floor is not compromised.

In my quest to learn more about grinding, I came across this link. Sounds appropriate given the fact you plan to rent the same equipment from HD. Notice the part where they suggest you buy a hand grinder and disc pads for the edges around the stem wall. Apparently the HD machine won't get those? The article uses Harbor Freight as their source for those tools, which isn't very inexpensive, but still something you need to plan. Also, the article talks about renting a shroud (and possibly vacuum) to help control dust, as well as using a TSP after you are done to remove dust. Before I put any chemicals on the floor I would talk with the epoxy manufacturer you plan to use and ask for their advice to ensure you get the best bond. Unfortunately, the article doesn't dive into time requirements for the work; however, it sounds like an all-day job according to the guys here. Maybe even 2 days for a shop your size. We all have different expectations and budgets. I am on the fence myself about what to do, as I mentioned earlier. However, one thing I realize is prep is everything with epoxy floors. So, if I was going to splurge on something to make sure it was done right, the prep is where it would be. Plus, you have to figure out what your own time is worth. Once you know all rental & miscellaneous material costs for DIY, then you can compare against a pro quote. If it’s $500 more, is 8-16 hours of your own time worth more than that? Can you afford that? Theoretically, if you make $100/hr at work, you'd be better off working and paying a pro. If you make $10/hr at work, you'd probably be better off grinding yourself, assuming you can get the prep right so the life of the final epoxy floor is not compromised.

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