Drywall anchors allow you to hang items safely and securely without having to locate studs.

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Drywall revolutionized residential home building in the s and 50s. Gypsum panels provided simple, affordable wall coverings that went up far faster than traditional lath and plaster. This reduced labor and material costs, which led to lower home prices. Millions of post-war home buyers loved the solid, durable surface drywall provided.

But there&#;s one area where drywall does not excel: Fastener retention.

Dry, crumbly gypsum doesn&#;t provide enough stable material for a fastener to latch on to. If you put a nail or screw in drywall. it won&#;t support more than a few pounds of weight, and it&#;s simple to pull it straight out.

A lone fastener might be secure enough to hold a wall calendar. But what if you want to hang something heavier, or something valuable? You can nail through the drywall and into a wall stud. But if your family heirloom doesn&#;t line up conveniently with a stud, you need a better answer.

Enter the drywall anchor.

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What are Drywall Anchors?

Any time you set a fastener like a nail or screw into a material that doesn&#;t hold tight, you use an anchor to hold it in place. That&#;s why materials such as drywall, brick and concrete need anchors.

Drywall anchors (sometimes simply called wall anchors) come in many designs that all work on the same principle: They hold the fastener steady, then distribute pressure to the back and sides of the drywall, spreading its weight-load across a wider area. The same concept applies to laying down on thin ice. Distributing the weight over a wider area makes it less likely to break through.

German inventor Artur Fischer patented the drywall anchor as we know it in . Fischer&#;s expanding nylon plug was the first of many designs that allow DIYers to hang almost anything from their walls.

Types of Drywall Anchors

Many types of drywall anchors are available for home use, each with different weight ratings.

Expansion anchors

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This is what most homeowners think of when they picture a drywall anchor, the kind that ships free with most towel rods and toilet paper hangers.

Essentially thin plastic sleeves, these anchors sit in the drywall hole and expand slightly when you drive a screw into them, adding pressure against the side of the hole and holding firm. Extremely affordable, they also have a lower holding weight than other anchors.

Toggle-bolts

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These anchors come as long bolts driven through a threaded toggle. The toggle folds in half, then uses a spring to pop open after being inserted into the wall, distributing its weight behind the drywall.

Toggle-bolts require a larger hole than most anchors due to the size of the spring-loaded section. Removing the bolt means the toggle is lost behind the wall.

A good example is this set from Blue Hawk, which requires a three-quarter inch hole drilled in the drywall. It&#;s rated for 70 lb. hanging capacity.

Pull-toggle anchors

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A relatively new entry in the drywall anchor market, these combine toggle-bolts and plastic anchors. The metal toggle is inserted into the wall just like a toggle-bolt. But instead of the metal bolt securing it in place, a plastic strap (similar to a zip-tie) pulls the toggle tight to the wall, connecting it to a threaded plastic retainer.

This installation method allows a single-piece toggle, giving a stronger hold and requiring a smaller entry hole. That provides the strength of a toggle bolt with the reusability of a plastic anchor.

This Hillman pull-toggle only requires a one-half inch entry, and can hold 120 lbs.

Metal anchors (Molly bolts)

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Molly bolts have been around for almost a century. They resemble metal versions of expansion anchors. But instead of pressing against the sides of the entry hole, they actually flare the anchor barrel, creating a wider hold pattern behind the wall.

If you are looking for more details, kindly visit anchor bolt installation.

&#;Molly Bolt&#; was originally a brand name, but it now commonly refers to any metal drywall anchors of this style, such as these anchors from Blue Hawk. These are light-duty anchors designed to hold about 20 lbs. Larger, more robust Molly bolts can hold heavier loads.

Self-drilling anchors

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Self-drilling anchors are just like they sound: An anchor with a drill tip, designed to be installed with a simple screwdriver. Behind the drill tip, these anchors have wide screw fins to get a good grip on the drywall.

They&#;re available in plastic or metal. Plastic is less expensive, while steel or zinc anchors can sit tight in a stud as well as a hollow wall. Both types are extremely easy to install and remove. They do make a bigger hole than slim expansion anchors, and don&#;t have the holding power of toggle bolts.

A good example is this 50-pack from E-Z Anchor, with a three-eighths inch diameter and a 40 lb. holding capacity.

Read the Packaging

The weight restrictions listed on drywall anchor packaging will be based on a certain wall thickness. If you&#;re not sure, assume your walls are one-half-inch thick. Most importantly, do not use any drywall anchor in a ceiling unless it&#;s specifically rated for that application.

Anchors mounted into a wall can use the bottom lip of the hole for support, while ceiling mounts rely solely on their distributed weight. So expansion anchors have almost no holding power in a ceiling.

Pull-toggles are often rated for ceiling applications, but read the packaging carefully. While most walls are covered with one-half-inch drywall, many residential ceilings use one-quarter-inch drywall, which has a lower load tolerance. Be sure to err on the side of caution when hanging anything from the ceiling.

How To Use Drywall Anchors

Installing a drywall anchor is relatively easy.

1. Drill the hole. For self-drilling anchors, use a screwdriver. For other types use a drill bit of the size recommended on the packaging.
2. Set the anchor. Depending on the type, this may mean screwing it flush (self-drilling), pulling the toggle tight (pull-toggle) or tapping it lightly with a hammer (expansion anchor).
3. Set the screw/fastener. With the anchor set in the wall, you&#;re ready to place your fastener. Note that toggle-bolt anchors need to be assembled through the item you&#;re hanging before the anchor is set.

Drywall Anchors Purchasing and Cost

Drywall anchors are available from many retailers. Costs vary. Here are some of the most common places to find them.

• Online. You should be able to find whatever you need.
  • Cost: Mid-range. You may pay a premium for a small pack. Skip the shipping costs by ordering online and picking up at a local store.
• Local hardware store. Neighborhood hardware stores normally have a wide selection of dependable anchors.
  • Cost: Affordable. Most hardware stores can buy enough fasteners and anchors to get bulk pricing, and are competitive with any other retail source.
• Big box stores. National chains like Lowe&#;s and The Home Depot offer a wide selection of drywall anchors, and even sell assorted kits that let you keep multiple sizes and styles on hand. These kits are a great addition to your DIY tools and materials collection, especially if you&#;re a new homeowner.
  • Cost: Affordable. The big box stores offer amazing selection and prices for hardware, like drywall anchors.
• General household stores. Grocery stores and retail outlets that focus on home goods and supplies will often carry a limited range of drywall anchors.
  • Cost: High. But they&#;re a great place to grab some simple anchors while getting your other shopping done.
• Included with fixtures. Many items, from towel racks to television mounts, come with multiple screws and anchors. The manufacturers want you to mount their goods whether you&#;re hanging it on drywall, into a stud or on a brick wall. You won&#;t use them all, so rather than throw away the extras, add them to your anchor collection. Eventually you&#;ll have enough for any job. You&#;ll be surprised how often you&#;ll delve into this collection.
  • Cost: Free!

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Pallet racks are a critical component of any warehouse storing large loads. If your racks aren&#;t properly anchored, though, these must-have storage solutions become million-dollar accidents waiting to happen.

The size of the loads typically stored on pallet racks means that should the rack fail, a warehouse could face catastrophic inventory losses. Worse, unsecured racks pose a potentially fatal employee hazard that OSHA takes very seriously.

Pallet rack anchors are base plate-and-bolt systems that secure the rack to the floor. These anchors prevent racks from pivoting or tipping over when struck by forces like earthquakes, impacts, or high winds.

OSHA requires pallet rack anchors

The Occupational Safety and Health Administration does not specifically name pallet rack anchors in its requirements, but don&#;t be fooled. Failure to secure pallet racks is one of the most frequent citations the agency issues. At least two OSHA regulations can be interpreted to mean these large-load racks must be bolted down.

Section (5)(a)(1) of the OSH Act of requires employers to provide &#;a place of employment which [is] free from recognized hazards that are&#;likely to cause death or serious physical harm.&#; There have been multiple instances in which unsecured large-load racking was found to violate this rule.

OSHA has also cited facilities with unsecured pallet racks underOSHA Standard .176(b), which covers the safe storage of material.

Though OSHA clearly considers unsecured pallet racking a hazard, it doesn&#;t offer a specific protocol to secure racks safely. Butwhen citing a facility for unsecured large-load racking in , OSHA inspectors recommended the facility fix the problem by bolting down its racks in accordance withANSI Standard MH16.1-. That standard says racking systems must include column base plates anchored to the floor, then goes on to give technical specifications for appropriate plates and bolts.

Unsecured pallet racking is an accident waiting to happen

Avoiding an OSHA fine is a strong incentive to bolt down your freestanding racks, but it&#;s far from the most compelling reason.

First, there&#;s the human element. OSHA regulations are intended to protect employees from harm, and a freestanding rack holding heavy loads is dangerous.

Second, there&#;s financial liability. An overturned pallet rack could cost you anywhere from thousands to millions of dollars in damaged inventory. Many warehouses keep tall racks close together to maximize storage space. If none of them are anchored to the floor, a forklift crashing into one could create a devastating domino effect.

It can be hard to imagine something as heavy as a loaded pallet rack tipping over. You might think the weight of the stock itself would hold the rack in place. But unless they&#;re secured to the ground, these racks are still subject to the laws of physics.

Despite the dangers of climbing onto racks, employees have been known to clamber onto a shelf to retrieve an item. Those localized, uneven movements can be just enough to pull the rack off balance. More commonly, pallet rack anchors hold the rack steady in the event of a seismic event. This could be anything from an earthquake to a bump from a wayward forklift.

How to anchor pallet racking to the floor

1. Check your flooring. It&#;s best to anchor your racking to concrete. Other industrial flooring types, like epoxy and vinyl, are typically not sturdy enough to hold the bolts. Even vitrified porcelain, while very strong, can be weakened at the spots you drill into it to secure anchors. If your warehouse floor is anything but concrete, get the advice of a materials handling expert before installing large-load racks. It's important to level your pallet racks before anchoring them. Few concrete floors are perfectly level. To avoid putting uneven stress on your anchors, use steel shims to level the frames.
2. Talk to an expert. Securing pallet racks to the floor involves drilling into your concrete slab. Using the wrong type of anchor, anchoring racks at the wrong point, or bolting them into the wrong position are simple but costly mistakes. Save money and time by getting advice from an expert before starting, to be sure you do it right the first time.
3. Know how many anchors you&#;ll need. Most base plates have two or more holes, but that doesn&#;t mean every hole gets an anchor. In fact, drilling holes that close together can weaken the concrete between them. Most racks need only one bolt per base plate. The additional holes are to provide you options in where to place your anchor. If you drill a hole and encounter rebar, instead of relocating the entire rack, you can just switch to a different hole in the plate. There are exceptions. If a facility is in an earthquake-prone area or if the loads intended for the rack are extremely heavy, each base plate should be anchored with two bolts. Consult with your materials handling expert before beginning to be sure you use the right number of anchors for your specific location and application.
4. Install your anchor. Follow your expert&#;s guidance on the correct hole depth and nut torque for your racking. Then:

• Drill a hole the same diameter as your bolt and slightly deeper than the bolt&#;s length.
• Use a wire brush or vacuum to clear debris from the hole so the anchor can get a good grip.
• Slide a washer onto the anchor, thread the nut so it is flush with the top of the bolt, and insert the bolt into the hole. Drive it down until the nut touches the base plate.
• Tighten the nut to the appropriate torque.

Choosing the right pallet rack anchors for your facility

There are several types of bolts you could use to stabilize your racking, and each one comes in multiple sizes. Choosing one is not just a matter of personal preference. Each anchor type and size is designed for a specific application, and using the wrong one could cause the anchor to fail.

To choose the appropriate anchor type and size for your project, refer to the rack manufacturer&#;s recommendations or the expertise of your materials handling advisor. Here are the anchor types you&#;re most likely to encounter.

• Wedge anchors. This is the most common pallet rack anchor. It looks like a standard bolt-nut-washer combo, but the bolt&#;s tapered end makes it unique. When properly torqued, the tapered end is forced through a metal sleeve that expands the space taken up by the bolt, similar to a drywall anchor. When using these anchors, the right hole size and torque are critical. Wedge anchors are permanent, so be really certain about your layout before using them. If you decide to move your racks later you&#;ll have to cut the bolt. This also means if you use the wrong size bolt and it breaks, you will have to drill a new hole through a different part of the base plate to replace it.

• Strike anchors. These impact-expansion anchors can only be installed in concrete, not masonry. Strike anchors are sized to perfectly fit the hole. You can visually inspect a strike anchor after it&#;s been set; if the head of the pin touches the threads, it is properly set.
• Screw anchors. Screw anchors are relatively rare in warehouse applications. They can be installed in both concrete and masonry and, unlike wedge or strike anchors, they can be removed and reused. They&#;re typically used in applications where racks only need to be anchored temporarily.
• Sleeve anchors. Sleeve anchors are rarely used for pallet racking because they are not rated to anchor racks holding heavy weights. For racks holding light and medium-duty loads, they can be installed into both concrete and masonry.
• Adhesive anchors. Adhesive anchors are a very resilient choice for permanent anchoring. Installing them is similar to installing a wedge anchor, except the hole is filled with epoxy before the bolt is inserted. Once hardened, the epoxy holds the anchor firmly in place.

Frequently asked questions about anchoring pallet racks

• Do you have to bolt down pallet racking? Yes. Unsecured pallet racks are dangerous. Even short racks can overturn if they are not bolted to the floor.
• How many columns on a pallet rack must be anchored? All of them. Both ANSI and the Rack Manufacturers&#; Institute (RMI) require anchors at the base of every column, including short columns, aisle columns, and interior or rear columns.
• How many anchors does each column need? Typically, one. Base plates come with multiple holes, but in most cases, you can choose one and install a single anchor. In some instances, like earthquake-prone areas or extremely heavy loads, columns should be anchored with two or more bolts. Consult your engineer or materials handling expert for advice on how many anchors you should use.
• What are the technical specifications for pallet rack anchoring? OSHA and RMI both reference the technical specifications put forth by ANSI. In addition, you should consult your local building codes and the recommendations of the pallet rack manufacturer.
• How do I know which anchor to choose? Consult your engineer, rack manufacturer, or material handling advisor to choose the anchor type and size best suited to your needs.
• Can I insert anchors near slab expansion joints? Yes, but be careful. Consult an engineer or materials handling expert before drilling into concrete near expansion joints.
• Can I install a new anchor near an old, unused anchor hole? If you already have an old anchor hole, you can place a new anchor 3 or more bolt diameters (center to center) away from it. If the old hole is filled with dry-pack mortar, you can insert a new anchor 1.5 bolt diameters away.

Do it right the first time

Bolting down pallet racks is not as simple as inserting a couple of screws. It&#;s a precise activity that should be undertaken with care. Doing it wrong wastes time and resources, fails to secure the rack, and leaves you with a damaged floor.

Before you drill your first hole,consult with a warehouse racking expert. We can make sure your floor is ready to receive anchors, help you design the optimal layout for your racking, advise you on the right anchors to buy, and oversee installation to make sure the job is done right.

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