What is better than a down jacket?

As the weather cools down each year, the great down-versus-synthetic insulation debate heats up. Goose and duck down fill are among the premier insulators on earth, trapping air and creating pockets of warmth around your body with very little weight. On the other hand, synthetic insulation breathes better and retains most of its ability to insulate when wet, which can be a major plus for serious outdoor use. Below we outline down and synthetic insulation and break down their warmth-to-weight, compressibility, comfort, durability, cost, and more. We hope it’s helpful in choosing your next down jacket or sleeping bag.

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Types of Insulation

Goose and Duck Down

Down insulation is an all-natural fill comprised of goose or duck plumage (contrary to popular belief, plumage is the soft material underneath the feathers, not the feathers themselves). The lofty nature of the plumage allows it to trap air between its filaments, which is then heated by your body’s warmth. Down is extremely light, compressible, warm, and known for having a long lifespan. But it’s not quite a miracle insulator: Down is not super breathable and loses its loft when wet, which means it no longer is able to keep you warm. Advances in technology have led to hydrophobic down—which we discuss more in-depth below—but we still don’t recommend down products for use in wet environments.

Air is trapped by down and warmed by your body's heat

Both duck and goose downs are classified by fill power, which is a measure (in cubic inches) of how much space is filled by one ounce of down. Fill power can vary from around 450 to over 900, with most high-quality down products featuring a fill power of 800 or above. The second measurement you’ll come across is fill weight, which is the weight (in ounces or grams) of the amount of down in a product. For example, the popular Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer/2 Hoody has 3 ounces of 800-fill down, and the REI Co-op Magma 15 sleeping bag features 15.9 ounces of 850-fill-power down. Fill weight sometimes can be difficult to track down as gear manufacturers are more keen to market fill power, but in the end, both are necessary to get an accurate idea of how warm a given down product is.

Duck and goose plumage aren’t always ethically sourced, but more and more manufacturers are starting to use fill certified by the Responsible Down Standard (RDS). The RDS is a global certification given to down products and indicates that the birds were treated humanely and not subjected to unnecessary harm, such as force-feeding or live-plucking. In addition to RDS, some companies have developed their own standards and means of communicating their sourcing, including Patagonia’s Traceable Down Standard and Mountain Equipment’s Down Codex. In the end, many consumers (ourselves included) appreciate the added transparency.

All down used by Feathered Friends is certified under the RDS

Synthetic Insulation

Synthetic insulation is a popular man-made alternative to down and is most often comprised of sheets of polyester fibers that aim to mimic down’s air-trapping abilities. Although it works in the same way as down—body heat gets trapped by the fibers’ loft—synthetic insulation in general is less warm, heavier, and less compressible than down. Further, over time, it gets packed out and loses its ability to loft, resulting in a shorter lifespan than down. But the largest benefit to choosing synthetic over down—and why we’ll always recommend it for certain environments—is the added wet-weather assurance. Synthetic fill does not lose its loft when wet, continues to insulate even when soaked, and dries out quickly. In addition, it’s more breathable than down and often cheaper. 

The Patagonia Nano-Air with synthetic FullRange insulation

Synthetic insulation is less uniform than down: Market leader Primaloft makes a number of different versions, but you also have FullRange and PlumaFill (Patagonia), Thermoball and Ventrix, (The North Face), Coreloft (Arc’teryx), etc. Regardless of the type, warmth is measured in grams per square meter (gsm); importantly, this is not the total amount of insulation in a product (unfortunately, synthetics aren’t measured the same way as down). In technical synthetic outerwear, we most often see insulations between 50 and 130 gsm (generally expressed as 50-gram or 50g), with most performance-oriented jackets hovering around 60 gsm. Sometimes, manufacturers will place lighter insulation in the arms and side panels of a jacket and heavier fill in the body. And of course, all else being equal, a higher number translates to a warmer and heavier product.

In recent years, advancements in technology have resulted in synthetic insulation that comes closer and closer to matching the packability and warmth-to-weight ratio of down. These include Patagonia’s PlumaFill, The North Face’s ThermoBall, and Outdoor Research’s VerticalX SuperStrand. Patagonia’s Micro Puff Jacket (with synthetic PlumaFill insulation) is even advertised as having the “best warmth for weight of any jacket” in the company’s lineup. Throughout testing, we found that the Micro Puff was impressive overall but still not as warm as a down jacket of a similar price and weight. In the end, no synthetic insulation yet matches the loftiness or warmth-to-weight ratio of down.

The warm, lightweight, and packable Patagonia Micro Puff

Hybrid Insulation

Most sleeping bags are exclusively down or synthetic, but not all jackets fall neatly into one category or the other: Keep an eye out for down/synthetic hybrids. Arc’teryx does this with its Down Composite Mapping, a system where they use down around the core of the body and synthetics in areas (cuffs, underarms, etc.) that are most prone to collecting moisture. Fjallraven’s Expedition series is another example that boasts synthetic insulation at the shoulders for extra weather resistance and toughness. All in all, we think it’s a great way to maximize the performance benefits of both types of insulation, including warmth where it matters most with added assurance against rain and snow.

Arc'teryx's Cerium LT has both down and synthetic fill

Performance Considerations

1. Warmth-to-Weight Advantage: Down

Without a doubt, down holds the warmth-to-weight crown. Down fill, and particularly premium goose down at 800-fill power and above, offers the ultimate in lightweight warmth. Simply put, you need more synthetic insulation to achieve the same warmth, resulting in more weight. Synthetics are making good efforts to catch up in this regard, including high-end insulations like Patagonia’s PlumaFill and The North Face’s ThermoBall Eco, but overall, the warmth gap remains. For example, consider the synthetic Mountain Hardwear Shasta 15 and down REI Co-op Magma 15 sleeping bags. The Magna is not only slightly warmer, but it’s considerably lighter, clocking in at 1 pound 12.2 ounces compared to the Mountain Hardwear’s 3-pound-3.7-ounce weight.

When every ounce counts, down is our top choice

2. Compressibility Advantage: Down

Like warmth, down is also known for its compressibility. You can stuff a lightweight down jacket to about the size of a water bottle, and much more tightly than a comparable synthetic. Keep in mind that the quality of down (and therefore its loftiness) matters in this equation: the higher the fill power, the more the down will compress. Compared to low- and medium-quality down (ranging from about 450- to 650-flll power), high-end synthetics aren’t that far behind—especially highly compressible insulations such as Patagonia’s PlumaFill and The North Face’s ThermoBall Eco.

One thing to keep in mind when stuffing your down jacket or sleeping bag is that leaving it stuffed can cause permanent damage. Compression sacks can pack a down sleeping bag into an incredibly small package, but you should use the much larger cotton or nylon sacks to let them expand when they are in storage. If you fail to take your gear out of its compression bag or stuff sack, you can damage the down and it may never regain its original loft.

The lightweight and packable Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer/2

3. Water Resistance Advantage: Synthetic

Perhaps the single biggest selling point of synthetic insulation is its ability to insulate when wet. Down soaks up water, clumps together, and loses its loft, thereby losing its insulating properties. Synthetic insulation, on the other hand, maintains its loft (and therefore, its insulating abilities) when wet. This means that synthetics have the clear advantage in damp climates or when there’s a chance of rain or wet snow.

That said, we’d be remiss not to mention hydrophobic down here. Hydrophobic down, or plumage that has been treated with a water-repellent coating, is able to resist moisture much better than untreated down and can maintain much of its loft and insulating abilities when wet. Further, many down jackets or sleeping bags will have an additional DWR treatment or waterproof membrane built into the shell. These weatherproofing techniques resist water to a reasonable degree and are in many ways superior to non-treated shell fabrics or down. However, they by no means create an impenetrable barrier, and will not stand up to truly inclement conditions like sustained rain or snow. In the end, synthetic still wins out.

Unlike down, synthetic fill maintains its insulating abilities when wet

4. Breathability Advantage: Synthetic

Down is such an effective insulator because it traps your body heat and keeps it there. Synthetics, on the other hand, aren’t as good at trapping heat and therefore breathe much more effectively. You’ll really notice the difference during high-exertion activities: Synthetic insulation has a way of regulating your body temperature so that you don’t get too hot or cold. If you were to wear a down jacket when hiking or cross-country-skiing, however, you would overheat rather quickly. In short, a good synthetic can keep you warm while still allowing enough air to escape. For these reasons, synthetic jackets are ideal for activities like climbing, biking, and ski touring (but keep in mind that less insulation results in more breathability). And you always can throw on a breathable softshell jacket on top for added protection. 
 

5. Comfort Advantage: Tie

In terms of pure coziness, down wins out in most cases. It’s super warm and light at the same time, giving you that pillowy feeling that you just won’t get with synthetics. For sleeping bags, it’s not even close: The loft of down puts it head and shoulders above synthetic fill in terms of comfort. However, for daily use and with jackets in particular, we often opt for synthetics instead. Most down jackets are too warm to wear indoors, and outside of the summer, we frequently keep our synthetic jacket on all day. The lower warmth and better breathability help indoors, and that makes them the more versatile piece for daily wear. Further, synthetic jackets will often have a more sweatshirt-like shell (the Patagonia Nano-Air, for example), rather than the shiny, “swishy” nature of most down shells.

Down is far superior to synthetic fill in terms of coziness and loft

6. Durability Advantage: Tie

This is an interesting topic: Down plumage is inherently durable, but down products tend to leak over time and therefore slowly lose warmth (if you see a feather protruding, massage it back in rather than pulling it out). Further, you can rip the relatively thin shell fabric of these jackets and lose a lot of down quickly, and you can also damage the loft of your down if you leave it compressed for too long. Synthetics, on the other hand, lack the natural durability of down. They tend to slowly lose their form and the fibers break down over time, particularly if you are compressing them frequently. However, the shell fabric found on synthetic jackets is often burlier and more abrasion-resistant, meant to take a beating on rock, when packed with sharp ski equipment, and around town.

We consider durability to be a tie, with each insulation having their advantages and disadvantages. You won’t want to wear your down jacket around rock or sharp branches, but it’s likely too warm (and not breathable enough) to have it on during activity anyways. Treated well, down products should have a very long life (we’re still using our dad’s sleeping bag from the 70s). Conversely, synthetic products have a limited lifespan from the start, but most can take a beating much better than down. And with either type of insulation, it’s key to treat it well. Proper storage is essential, including keeping your jacket or sleeping bag unstuffed in your gear closet. Cleaning the item on occasion can help remove oils and dirt. For sleeping bags in particular, it’s not a bad idea to use a simple silk liner to prevent your body oils from being in constant contact with the fibers throughout the night. 

Shell fabric is an important factor when considering durability

7. Price Advantage: Synthetic

Without a doubt, synthetic insulation is cheaper than down. The cost of down continues to rise—supply is low and demand is high—and it’s just not easy to get that super-soft goose plumage in the quantities that outdoor gear manufacturers need. Synthetic insulation can also be pricey, and particularly newer high-end products designed to mimic down, but it’s still the cheaper option. For example, Arc’teryx’s leading lightweight down jacket, the Cerium LT Hoody, is $379. Their leading lightweight synthetic jacket, the Atom LT Hoody, costs $259. And from our sleeping bag example above, the Mountain Hardwear Shasta 15 costs $170 compared to $399 for the REI Co-op Magma 15. Depending on the product, you can expect to save one-third or more by going with a comparable synthetic piece.

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8. Sustainability Advantage: Neither

When it comes to the sustainability debate, neither down nor synthetic escape without blame. It’s easy to point the finger at down: we’re probably all familiar with the ethical concerns involved with sourcing feathers, which include ducks and geese suffering live plucking and force feeding. Thankfully, programs like the Responsible Down Standard and Patagonia’s Traceable Down Standard certify responsibly sourced down, making it possible for the consumer to shop ethically. And to add to the pro-down argument, keep in mind that feathers have a much longer lifespan than synthetic insulation—down products can offer great performance and warmth for literally decades.

The most sustainable option: using what you already have

While synthetic fills have been less scrutinized, they have their own set of issues. For one, most are petroleum based, which results in greenhouse gas emissions and potentially unsafe work environments. Many manufacturers have attempted to make their production more sustainable by using recycled materials, which is a great start. That said, some synthetic fills can release micro pieces of plastic into the water during each wash, an issue that is becoming more and more of a global problem. In the end, the most sustainable solution is to buy nothing at all and do what you can to extend the life of what you already own. And if you do make a purchase, we encourage you to be a responsible consumer and choose products with RDS-certified down or recycled synthetic fill.
 

Our Favorite Down and Synthetic Gear

After all of the discussion on down vs. synthetic insulation, there are important gear decisions to be made. We’ve tested a lot of outdoor gear and picked our favorites, including the best down jackets, synthetic jackets, and backpacking sleeping bags. For even more categories, check out our ski gear reviews and hiking gear reviews, both of which cover almost everything you need to get outdoors this year. 

Down jackets are famously warm, especially given how light and compressible they can be. But there are some people who prefer other insulating materials in their winter jackets and coats. For some, it’s an issue of cruelty, due to how down is harvested from geese and ducks, especially with reports of live plucking and other concerns. For others, it can be an issue of performance, especially in wet weather, as down loses its insulating properties when it gets wet. In active pursuits this is not limited to being caught in a rain storm - even the moisture and sweat of exertion can reduce the insulating quality of down garments, especially mid-layers, which is why synthetic fleece became so popular in the outdoor community.

Quality alternatives to down, especially within the market for high performance clothing for cold weather activities such as skiing, have greatly increased in recent years. Here are a few of the best.

Polyester Synthetics:

Most high tech synthetic insulation uses polyester strands with each brand varying size and shape. The most widely used materials are Thinsulate, FullRange, PolarTec Alpha and PrimaLoft. Most ski and outdoor active jackets use PrimaLoft, probably the best known proprietary synthetic insulating material. It was originally developed in the 1980s for the U.S. Army as a water-resistant, synthetic alternative to down. The first commercially available PrimaLoft-insulated garment was an L.L. Bean jacket in 1989. PrimaLoft insulation is divided into three categories, black, silver and gold, with the Gold Series being the highest performing. PrimaLoft is now used by more than 500 brands worldwide, including active outdoor gear giants Patagonia, Helly Hansen and The North Face, among others.

One way to shop for down alternatives is to simply look for the PrimaLoft tag, ideally Gold, but here are some notable specific suggestions and other alternatives to down.

SYNC is a small, high-performance company based in Vail, Colorado with roots in the ski racing industry. While heavier “puffy” jackets keep you very warm, they typically are not great for active sports like skiing because of their restrictive fit. SYNC fixes that with a proprietary stretchy knit fabric, Motion 360, for freedom of movement. Their Stretch Puffy jacket (shown above) is meant for on-mountain activity as well as in-town warmth and excels at both. It uses lots of PrimaLoft Gold for a high level of thermal capacity that also maintains warmth when wet. The SYNC Stretch Puffy’s unique shell material is also breathable and coated with an anti-microbial water repellent treatment. For additional protection from wet weather, it also has an abrasion resistant, waterproof, breathable shoulder overlay and helmet compatible hood, as well as waist drawstrings, zippered hand warmer pockets and zippered inside chest pocket. ($300)

Wool:

A natural down alternative is wool. While it’s more typically found woven in layering pieces and sweaters, specialty merino wool companies like Ibex, Smartwool and Icebreaker use it in threads as insulation for winter jackets as well. Wool has many benefits: it’s sustainable, quick drying, compressible, easy to care for and is a warm insulator. Unlike down, it maintains most of its warmth even when wet. I have written here before about the many benefits of merino wool, my favorite active wear material, and have long owned and used many different Ibex products. The company has three women’s jackets in their Wool Aire line, offering breathable, durable, lightweight warmth in an array of stylish, insulated outerwear. All are insulated with 23 micron, U.S.-sourced, 100% wool fibers they’ve updated to be even softer, warmer and loftier. The Wool Aire Matrix Hoody is likely the best for active cold-weather pursuits, a ski jacket style with stretchy woven wool fleece side panels for unencumbered freedom of movement during sports, a hood, and light but durable ripstop polyester (recycled) shell that has been treated for water repellency. Extras include an interior zippered chest pocket, an interior mesh pouch pocket, and zippered hand warmer pockets. ($250)

Air:

What makes down, Primaloft and wool all so good for keeping you warm? They all trap air, which is the best insulator of all. Niche performance outerwear company NuDown skipped such materials altogether and went straight to air: they offer a line of jackets and vests with built-in inflatable bladders that let you adjust the level of insulation whenever you need to, customizing the garment’s warmth over what the company claims is a flexible 40° range. Instead of a shell for warmer days and heavier jacket for colder, you can use just one - and in many cases, skip layers. Each item has a blood pressure cuff-style rubber bulb pump in one outside pocket that lets you quickly add air when cold or release it when warm. It sounds gimmicky but my husband has one of the men’s jackets, uses it for skiing, and it works. The bladder is the main feature but it is also a well-made all around piece of active outerwear, and the most versatile women’s model is the Squaw Peak, with a functional 4-way stretch soft shell exterior, charcoal and bamboo wicking liner, and PrimaLoft Gold insulation in the non-inflatable parts, the sleeves, hood and collar. It has stretch cuffs with thumb holes, a feature many women love, pit zips, lots of zippered pockets, including one on the chest and two on the sleeve for lift passes or lip balm, an internal music/phone pocket and detachable helmet compatible hood. ($650)

Stay warm out there!

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