Leather Jackets in China : Fabric Markets, Taobao, Vintage ...

Exploring Shanghai's Fabric Markets

Shanghai boasts a variety of fabric markets densely populated with tailors who can craft almost any garment you desire. You can even provide your own design sketches. Additionally, there are numerous tailors dispersed throughout the city.

Assessing Work Quality

The quality of workmanship varies. I've personally had multiple blazers and dress pants tailor-made. I tend to examine their available fabrics and the quality of their sample work. Once I decide, I avoid aggressive bargaining. Instead, I request one piece initially, emphasizing the importance of quality. If dissatisfied, it remains the only order. My custom blazers cost 700RMB each, and dress pants were 250RMB, which are prices from two years ago. Interestingly, I still have blazers and pants made a decade ago, indicating decent quality. Regular off-the-rack blazers usually don't fit well around my hips, and trousers are too tight at the thighs due to my exercise routines. Hence, tailoring meets my needs better, despite its competitive nature and profit margins.

Leather Jackets: On and Off the Rack

While I haven't purchased off-the-rack leather jackets, Haining in Zhejiang province offers a range of leather goods, just a four-hour drive from Shanghai. Leather jackets there range from 300RMB to more.

Custom Creations at Tony Leather

Tony Leather is a small workshop handling limited orders. I have ordered a custom jacket styled like a modified brakeman coat, although I haven't received it yet due to their busy season. They offer various styles, from the Highwayman to motorcycle jackets, and all fit almost perfectly. I appreciate their craftsmanship. Tony, who runs the shop, once discussed possible collaborations, suggesting I might handle their distribution in Montreal.
They use Horween, Italian, and Japanese veg-tanned leather, though these are pricier due to import tariffs. I opted for the heavyweight steerhide (1.3 to 1.6 mm thick), which is already quite thick and stiff. My custom jacket costs RMB with cotton lining, but opting for Horween leather would significantly increase the price. Presently, their lining choices are limited to cotton and wool. You may also provide your leather.

Alternatives for Custom Leather Jackets

Several other places also offer custom leather jackets, but since some don't allow visits to their workshops, I tend to avoid them.

Buying Foreign Leather Jackets in China

For foreign leather jackets in China, a local distributor or a "dai gou" (sourcer) can simplify the process. I bought leather bags from the USA years ago, and dealing with customs was tedious. A sourcer handles tariffs better, saving you the hassle. Eagle Wings, a distributor of Schott/Cockpit USA, has stores in Shanghai and Beijing. Their markup, considering the tariff, is reasonable, and you can try on the items. Their staff is notably friendly, and I bought a Schott jacket there.
I avoid buying clothes without trying them on and lack firsthand experience with Taobao purchases. This inclination makes me hesitant about ordering from Aero.

Insights on Ray Kwoh in Guangzhou

Ray Kwoh's jacket business is new, expanding from wallets, bags, and shoes. I once bought loafers from them for 750RMB without trying them on. While the leather and craftsmanship, including goodyear welt construction, are solid, the fit was slightly tight for my toes.

Bespoke Shoes in Shanghai

Numerous bespoke shoemakers operate in Shanghai, with JP being one of the best. I acquired a pair of French calf leather oxfords, offering first-class quality superior to Allen Edmonds. JP's two Shanghai stores measure your feet and provide sample shoes for fit adjustments. Their knowledgeable, friendly staff offers great service, albeit at a premium cost. My pair was RMB, cheaper using Spanish leather or suede. Their offerings include dress shoes, loafers, and chelsea boots, and they also make women's shoes.
For women, my wife knows a high-end heels maker, priced similarly in the -RMB range.

Quality vs. Fast Fashion

In summary, quality items are available if you're willing to pay. Fast fashion prices yield fast fashion results. Smaller quality-focused shops are emerging, though not widely known and relatively expensive.

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