Questions You Should Know about Adhesive film for PET surfaces

Apr. 29, 2024

What is the best adhesive for bonding PET Plastic?

Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) is a thermoplastic material from the Polyester family.

Want more information on Adhesive film for PET surfaces? Feel free to contact us.

PET is a lightweight, strong and inert material that is easily transported and recyclable. PET is extremely versatile and can be used in food and drink packaging, for making disposable medical devices and industrial films and wraps.

Main PET properties

– Surface energy: 44mJ/m²

– Maximum service temperature: 70°C

– Melting temperature: 250°C

Speciality adhesives for bonding PET are available, without the need for a pre-treatment.

How to bond PET

The first factors to consider when selecting the best adhesive for bonding PET is the solvent and temperature resistance of the adhesive.

Structural acrylic adhesives such as the Permabond TA4610 can be used to bond untreated PET. They provide a high bond strength without having to use a primer or surface treatment.

Structural acrylic adhesives provide good resistance to polar solvents and non-polar solvents. Depending on the application, structural acrylic adhesives are available with faster and slower set times.

Permabond Cyanoacrylate adhesives can be used to bond PET with a primer such as the Permabond POP. Recommended adhesives for bonding PET are the Permabond 105 and Permabond 2050. Both adhesives can provide high strength bonds within seconds and they provide good resistance to non-polar solvents. In general, most cyanoacrylate adhesives have poor resistance to polar solvents so should not be used in applications involving water, alcohol or other polar solvents.

Permabond TA4610 and Permabond Cyanoacrylate adhesives have a temperature resistance that exceeds the temperature resistance of PET, making it suitable for PET bonding applications.

Surface preparation and bonding untreated PET

Surfaces should be clean, dry and free from grease before applying the adhesive. Isopropanol wipes can be used to degrease the surface. For tips on best practice, read our post on: Surface Preparation for Adhesive Bonding

Structural acrylic adhesives

Permabond TA4610 can be applied without a primer or surface treatment. The adhesive can be applied through a static mixer nozzle.

Cyanoacrylate adhesives

Prime the surface using Permabond POP and apply the cyanoacrylate adhesive. Permabond POP is an adhesion promoter for Cyanoacrylate adhesives and is not recommend for use with other adhesives.

The other option is to treat the PET surface using flame, corona or plasma treatment, which will increase the surface energy and improve the adhesion.

Contact us for specific product recommendations on a suitable adhesive for bonding PET plastic

Looking for tips on bonding other plastics, read: What you need to know on bonding plastics

Suitable glue for Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) plastic

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~2 [Next] Turk

Inner circle
Portland, OR
3546 Posts

Posted: Nov 18, 2008 08:07 am

I'm trying to find a glue that will bond two thin pieces of Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) plastic. (This is the plastic that has a "1" in the recycle symbol on the bottom of the cup. Here's a picture of the cup:

In searching for a suitable glue, I have run into two problems:

1) The 1st problem that I am encountering is that most of the "plastic" glues sold in hardware stores seem to exclude polyethylene plastics as a viable material that can be glues with that particular glue. So far, most of the glue companies responding to my emails are excluding Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) plastic as an acceptable plastic for their product(s).

2) Another problem that I'm encountering is that some of the "aggressive" glues' methodology for bonding is to literally melt the surface of the two plastic surfaces and then they bond during the curing process. This would be unacceptable because these cup walls are so thing that I'm concerned that the cups walls will either warp or will develop holes or bubbles (thereby ruining both the appearance and functionality of the cups.

Does anyone here on the Café have experience with Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) plastic and glues acceptable for gluing such material? I'd hate to have to start experimenting with various glues. The cost per tube/can varies but start out at approximately $3.00 per tube and quickly goes up to $10.00+ per tube. I'm not too excited about spending $50.00+ in an effort to find an acceptable glue.

Any information in this regard would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

Mike

Hello, all.I'm trying to find a glue that will bond two thin pieces of Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) plastic. (This is the plastic that has a "1" in the recycle symbol on the bottom of the cup. Here's a picture of the cup: http://www.delmonte.com/products/FruitItem.asp?id=61 The fruit cup label is merely shrink wrapped around the cup and it is easily removed--thereby leaving a smooth translucent cup.)In searching for a suitable glue, I have run into two problems:1) The 1st problem that I am encountering is that most of the "plastic" glues sold in hardware stores seem to exclude polyethylene plastics as a viable material that can be glues with that particular glue. So far, most of the glue companies responding to my emails are excluding Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) plastic as an acceptable plastic for their product(s).2) Another problem that I'm encountering is that some of the "aggressive" glues' methodology for bonding is to literally melt the surface of the two plastic surfaces and then they bond during the curing process. This would be unacceptable because these cup walls are so thing that I'm concerned that the cups walls will either warp or will develop holes or bubbles (thereby ruining both the appearance and functionality of the cups.Does anyone here on the Café have experience with Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) plastic and glues acceptable for gluing such material? I'd hate to have to start experimenting with various glues. The cost per tube/can varies but start out at approximately $3.00 per tube and quickly goes up to $10.00+ per tube. I'm not too excited about spending $50.00+ in an effort to find an acceptable glue.Any information in this regard would be greatly appreciated.Thanks a lot.Mike

Magic is a vanishing Art.

This must not be Kansas anymore, Toto.

Eschew obfuscation.

Ray Tupper.

Special user
NG16.
749 Posts

Posted: Nov 18, 2008 10:07 am

I spoke to a rep who supplies me with several adhesives,he said he wasn't aware of anything that would grab that kind of substrate.Just to make sure,he got in touch with his companys chemist who agreed.
The only thing they could come up with was melting the areas to be bonded and then re-assembling while the areas were still in a softened state.
They also mentioned double sided tape,but they couldn't guarantee this would work.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news,hopefully somebody within the plastics industry will come to your aid.
Cheers,Ray.

What do we want?
A cure for tourettes!
When do we want it?
C*nt!

Turk

Inner circle
Portland, OR
3546 Posts

Posted: Nov 18, 2008 12:22 pm

Ray,

Thanks for all the time and effort spent on my behalf. It is much appreciated. Please pass on my thanks to your rep and his chemist. I'm beginning to understand why I've been having so much difficulty finding an appropriate adhesive.

This probably also explains why Krylon emailed me back that they had not tried Fusion (Krylon's spray paint for plastics) on the substance (i.e., "Since we have no testing on the type of plastic you mention..."). Probably also explains why DelMonte uses a shrink-wrapped label and does not attempt to print out the fruit cup label information directly onto the cup's surface.

Thanks again for that prompt response to my inquiry.

Mike

Magic is a vanishing Art.

This must not be Kansas anymore, Toto.

Eschew obfuscation.

kregg

Inner circle
1950 Posts

Posted: Nov 18, 2008 03:42 pm

Try here: http://www.overclock.net/faqs/97882-info-guide-gluing.html

POOF!

gaddy

Inner circle
Agent of Chaos
3528 Posts

Posted: Nov 18, 2008 05:05 pm

PET plastic is very tough to bond. Off hand I cannot think of anything that meets the requirements you desire. If you could suitably roughen the surfaces of the pieces to be bonded (thereby increasing the surface area of the bonding site dramatically), a 2 part epoxy could possibly do the job for you.

*due to the editorial policies here, words on this site attributed to me cannot necessarily be held to be my own.*

kregg

Inner circle
1950 Posts

Posted: Nov 18, 2008 05:20 pm

Turk, If you have a tech school nearby they might be able to help you.

POOF!

RicHeka

Inner circle
3999 Posts

Posted: Nov 18, 2008 05:50 pm

Mike Have tried 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive ?

I don't know firsthand whether it will work on your project,but it is seriously sticky stuff.

At the very least,you will find other uses for it.

Rich

Turk

Inner circle
Portland, OR
3546 Posts

Posted: Nov 18, 2008 05:58 pm

For more adhesive plastic film for windowsinformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

Kregg, your link was very helpful. Not only did the one poster give a definitive and helpful list of FAQ items, but another poster mentioned Locktite. I had forgotten Locktite.

This product looks especially promising and specifivally mentions polyethelene plastics as being able to be bonded:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/......plid=661

I've sent an email to Locktite to ask them to list any and all products they make that will bond Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) plastic.

Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.

Mike

Thanks for all the help, guys. It is much appreciated.Kregg, your link was very helpful. Not only did the one poster give a definitive and helpful list of FAQ items, but another poster mentioned Locktite. I had forgotten Locktite.This product looks especially promising and specifivally mentions polyethelene plastics as being able to be bonded:I've sent an email to Locktite to ask them to list any and all products they make that will bond Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) plastic.Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.Mike

Magic is a vanishing Art.

This must not be Kansas anymore, Toto.

Eschew obfuscation.

Turk

Inner circle
Portland, OR
3546 Posts

Posted: Nov 19, 2008 12:42 am

I just heard back from Loctite. Despite the fact that their Loctite Plastic onder product specificically states the the product is suited for polyetheylene plastics, an email from Loctite states:

"Thank you for e-mailing Henkel Corporation concerning our products. We
appreciate the time you took to contact us.

Unfortunately, we do not make an appropriate product for your project...."

Go figure.

(I'll contact Loctite by phone tomorrow and ask how a product specifically spec'ed as OK for polyetheylene plastics is not appropriate for my project that is utilizing polyetheylene plastic.)

Magic is a vanishing Art.

This must not be Kansas anymore, Toto.

Eschew obfuscation.

Turk

Inner circle
Portland, OR
3546 Posts

Posted: Nov 19, 2008 02:41 am

On 2008-11-18 20:25, Rupert Bair wrote:
Try a welder?

Quote:

Rupert,

You, know...that might not be a bad idea. (grin) I could probably tack weld the two pieces together using a soldering iron. That said, I might be looking at some chemical welding as the two surfaces "melt" and then bond together. Either way, it looks like just straight surface adhesive might not be viable for a plastic as slick as PET.

Mike

Rupert,You, know...that might not be a bad idea. (grin) I could probably tack weld the two pieces together using a soldering iron. That said, I might be looking at some chemical welding as the two surfaces "melt" and then bond together. Either way, it looks like just straight surface adhesive might not be viable for a plastic as slick as PET.Mike

Magic is a vanishing Art.

This must not be Kansas anymore, Toto.

Eschew obfuscation.

Tom Bartlett

Special user
Our southern border could use
763 Posts

Posted: Nov 19, 2008 04:59 am

Have you tried the 3M clear silicone or maybe it is GE clear silicone used to hold glass fish tanks together? It has worked in applications that seemed impossible.

Our friends don't have to agree with me about everything and some that I hold very dear don't have to agree about anything, except where we are going to meet them for dinner.

Turk

Inner circle
Portland, OR
3546 Posts

Posted: Nov 19, 2008 07:32 pm

That's a good idea, Tom. And, I'm awaiting a response from GE regarding any proucts they might have that might work. I thought of silicone for another reason: After successfully gluing the two parts together (yeh! right!), I would still need to fill in some "wavy gaps" that would naturally exist between the tow glued pieces.

But, at this point, I'm thinking that a clear silicone might just do the trick for both bonding and filling.

Thanks again for the suggestion.

Mike

Magic is a vanishing Art.

This must not be Kansas anymore, Toto.

Eschew obfuscation.

Rupert Bair

Inner circle
?
2181 Posts

Posted: Nov 19, 2008 08:57 pm

Does it have to be glued?? Perhaps using needle and fishing line to connect them??

:: eyeWONDER Magicians Blog :: Click Here! Christo

Loyal user
Cyprus
229 Posts

Posted: Nov 19, 2008 09:08 pm

start a different project........

Chris

Turk,start a different project........Chris

"Humpty was pushed!!"

Turk

Inner circle
Portland, OR
3546 Posts

Posted: Nov 21, 2008 01:38 pm

On 2008-11-19 16:08, Christo wrote:
Turk,
start a different project........

Chris

Quote:

Ah! Chris. Wish I could. The trials and tribulations of an OCD anal-retentive person. (grin) Actually, I'm going to just "go for it" and try a few glues and GE silcone and, if none of them work, I will then switch gears.

BTW, nice to see you on the Café.

Mike

Magic is a vanishing Art.

This must not be Kansas anymore, Toto.

Eschew obfuscation.

morggan

New user
1 Post

Posted: Feb 3, 2009 08:16 pm

Hello,
I'm new here and found your thread through a google search! It happens that I'm facing the same problem ---I'm trying to glue a PET piece to a piece of metal. So far, I spent a good couple of twenty bucks with no luck.
However, today I tried a glue that seems to work (I still have to wait another 24 hs and do the bond test --trying to pull them apart quite strongly).
The brand is E6000 (Medium viscosity, clear) and comes in two tube sizes. I purchased the small one, $3.50.
Another option is to try fill all the gaps with epoxy resin. Or build a layer of expoxy, wait until it dries, and then over this layer try glue the other part.
Or, best, while the epoxy is still wet, but not too wet, "sink" the second part in it makinig sure all the gaps are filled with the epoxy.
By the way, did you finally find a good glue, or you switched projects?

morggan

New user
1 Post

Posted: Feb 3, 2009 08:21 pm

Just forgot to say that E6000 smells like a zoo of dead rats. I got instant headache. Hope it really works...

Turk

Inner circle
Portland, OR
3546 Posts

Posted: Feb 6, 2009 05:25 am

Morgan,

I did find a suitable glue for my purposes (no torquing or stress on the joint). I don't know how strong the bond is if pressure or stress is applied. It looks like it might take some stress torquing of the joint but how much it might take, I can't say. (I've just now glued two scrap peces of the PET plastic together and, after a week, I'll see how strong the bond really is.)

The glue I'm referring to is a Loctite product. The 2nd package of it that I purchased is labelled: "Loctite Super Glue All Plastics" . I thing that Loctite just recently changed the name of this product. I seem to recall that the first package was labelled: "Loctite Plastic Bonder (for all plastics". The two products look identical and each contians a (the identical?) felt tipped primer and then a small tube of super glue.

The back of the Locktite container states:

"Loctite Super Glue for All Platics. Advanced Adhesive System for super strong rapid bonding. Works on all-plastic, all-materials including hard to bond polyethelyne and polypropylene. No mixing required. Simply prime and glue."

Now, that said, when I inquired about PET plastic, the Loctite representative emailed me back that PET plastics were not included in the "all plastics" description and that the glue was not for PET plastics. Go figure. I thought that "all plastics" menat exactly what it said. And so, operating on the assumption that the customer service rep was mistaken, I tried the Loctite glue for my project and it is doing the job I needed. As I state above, I've just now glued two scrap peces of the PET plastic together and, after a week, I'll see how strong the bond really is. (grin)

I just recently had the Titebond company send me a sample package of their CA (Construction Adhesives) products. They actually sent me four full bottles plus a full bottle of Activator (I think that this is a primer that might be necessary or recommended for use with the thinner glues.) These are all full retail bottles of the products. WOW!! Now that is customer service!! I plan on trying these products shortly and then emiling in the results to TiteBond. (Itds the very least I can do after such great customer service.

The four Titebond CA varieties are:

Instant Bond Wood Adhesive Thin
Instant Bond Wood Adhesive Medium
Instant Bond Wood Adhesive Thick
Instant Bond Wood Adhesive Gel

It is my understanding that these products are not exclusively for wook bonding.

(Jake at RNT2 turned me onto the Titebond CA adhesives. It is what he uses but, frankly, he was surprised that Titebond had four different varieties of the glue. Jake says he uses this for all his needs and "what ever he glues, stays glued". I'm assuming that Jake uses this for wood, plastic and metal--but I cannot be certain of this assumption.)

I seem to recall that the Titebond web site does show these products being used for wood, metals, cloth, acrylics, and other materials.

I hope this helps answer your question.

Best,

Mike

P.S. I'll report back in about a week and let you know how the Loctite product faired when I tried to pull the above-referenced two glued scrap pieces apart.

P.P.S. I did paint my PET plastic product. Finding a paint that would "stick" to the plastic was challenging. The paint I settled on was Krylon's "Fusion" spray paint for plastics. However, despite what it says about being able to apply two coats, I found that that was impossible to do. I waited 10+ days between coats and, as soon as I applied the second coat, the first coat instantly came up from the plastic and "crinkled". The paint dried and stayed on the PET plastic but it is now in a crinkled state. (A few people I showed the project to liked the crinkled finish more than the smooth finish. Go figure.)

Magic is a vanishing Art.

This must not be Kansas anymore, Toto.

Eschew obfuscation.

Chance

Inner circle
1385 Posts

Posted: Feb 6, 2009 03:01 pm

I always have good luck with 2-part epoxy resin. It's my default glue when I can't find the so-called exact adhesive, and it's never let me down. I always try to use the 24-hr version, as opposed to the 5-minute stuff. The wait's longer, but the joint is way more flexible.

Scruff up ultra-smooth surfaces (both halves) before application for extra grip.

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