Why is Cast Iron Angle Plate Better?

What Is Angle Plate?

The angle plate is made by two plates machining at an angle of 90 degrees. Since the plates join at a particular angle, it is called an angle plate. It is used to clamp the job, supporting it at 90 degrees.

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The edges and ends of the angle plates are also produced at 90 degrees by machining. The part of the angle plate that is not in the ribs of that part is made for proper grip and prevents any deformity. The ribs support two plates of the angle plate.

Angle plates are mainly made of G.C.I (Granular Cast Iron). The jobs are mounted using angle plates for both measuring and marking.

The shape of an angle plate is specified using its length, width, and height. Depending on the size of the angle plates, they are numbered from 1 to 10. Nos. 1 to 6 is the first-class angle plate, and 7 to 10 is the second class angle plate.

The 1st-grade angle plate is very well-grounded and is of high quality. 1st Grade angle plates are used in the tool room as very precise machining, and marking can be done using 1st-grade angle plates.

Second-class angle plates are of lower quality than first-class angle plates. They are used in machine shops or workshops. Apart from the 1st-grade angle plate and 2nd-grade angle plate, a precision angle plate is also available for checkings the quality of 1st grade & 2nd-grade angle plates.

Types of Angle Plates:

#1. Plain or Solid Angle Plate

These angle plates are named plain angles plates because both plates, which are placed at 90 degrees in these angles plate, are completely plane. There are no slots on this plate. These are the most commonly used angle plates of all different types.

These plane angle plates have ribs to prevent the angle plates from becoming deformed or deformed. These angles plate are smaller in size than other angles plate.

#2. Slotted Angle Plate

Slated angles are cut slots or grooves between the plates in the plate. They are larger in size than a plain angle plate. The slots are cut into a slotted angle plate so that we can fasten a job in it using a nut and bolt. Clamping bolts are attached in slots on the top plane surface of the slotted angle plates.

The bottom side of the slotted angles plate can also be properly glued with the machine table. It is also used to fasten, support, and mark the workpiece.

For marking & machining, this type of angle plate can be rotated up to 90 degrees. This slotted angles plate can be used in lathe, shaper, grinding machines.

#3. Adjustable Angle Plate or Swivel Base Angles Plate

In this type of angle plate, angles between two plates are adjustable, i.e., we can change the angle between the two plates as per our requirements.

In this type of angle plate, the two plates are not machined with each other. They are separated from each other. One plate serves as the base, and the other plate can move and change its angle relative to the first plate. Both plates are slated in an adjustable angle plate.

One plate has graduation marking of different angles so that the tilt angle can be detected with respect to the other surface, & we can set the plates at an angle that is necessary. There are nut bolts to lock the two plates at any angle.

These angle plates are used where we have to do precise machining or machining at a specific angle other than 90 degrees.

Box Angle Plate of Angle Plate:

It is called a box angles plate because its structure is like a box. This type of angle plate consists of six plates alternately at 90 degrees. The use of a box angle plate is similar to the use of angle plates indicated above.

There are slots in each of the six plates on this angle plate. Since there are slots on each side, the job can be properly fastened on either side using a nut and bolt.

After camping or setting the workpiece or job, the job can be rotated with a box angle plate, i.e., we can easily rotate the box to change the orientation of the job for various operations like drilling, marking, etc. This is a very useful feature'this box angle plate makes various processes very easy.

All the planes in this box angle plate are joined by machining them at 90 degrees so that the angle has precision. Box angle plates are used in large machines such as radial drilling machines for clamping workpieces.

Swivel Angle Plates of Angle Plate:

Swivel angle plates ensure that work can be set quickly and correctly at any angle with these adjustable swivel angle plates. They are graduated to set 0 ' 90 ° and can be easily adjusted manually and locked to the adjusted position via two locking nuts.

To establish the objectives, a degree scale, a minimum of one-degree reading, is graduated on the boss itself. This ensures better setting accuracy. Swivel angles plates are offered in the following sizes: Tilting angle (0 ° -90º)

Cast Iron T-Slotted Angle Plate of Angle Plate:

Cast iron T-slated angle plates are being used for various jobs in various industries such as vertical mounting of large jobs, while used as precise vertical bases for machining, marking, inspection, fabrication, other Accuracy of surfaces, and many other types of operations.

Profile:- Generally, T-slots are provided with sizes 18, 22, 28, 36 mm, which correspond to IS: / DIN 650, ranging from H12 to H7. Hole, square slots, guiding slots, or other profiles can be given on vertical as well as bottom face as per customer requirement.

Relieve stress:- After rough machining to prevent deformation, the angle will be relieved by casting stress.

Large sizes:- Jagdeep T-slated angle plates will be manufactured in different sizes and combinations in a single piece or multi-piece construction depending on the application and requirement.

Flatness and Perpendicularity:- T-slated angle plates shall be constructed of the vertical and horizontal surface of the flat and vertical surface with the vertical-horizontal face or table face and per DIN 875.

Surface Finish:- CNC finish or hand scrap finish can be provided as per requirement.

Care and Maintenance of Angle Plate:

1. Angle Plate should be cleaned before & after its use.
2. Apply oil after using the angle plate.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) About Angle Plates

What Is an Angle Plate Used For?

An angle plate is used to support and position a workpiece at a precise 90-degree angle for machining, marking, or measuring. It ensures that the workpiece is held securely and accurately.

What Materials Are Angle Plates Typically Made From?

Angle plates are usually made from Granular Cast Iron (G.C.I) due to its durability and stability. This material helps in maintaining the precision of the angle plate over time.

What Are the Different Types of Angle Plates?

1. Plain or Solid Angle Plate: Has two flat plates set at 90 degrees with no slots. Ideal for general use.
2. Slotted Angle Plate: Includes slots for clamping and securing the workpiece, allowing for more flexibility in positioning.
3. Adjustable Angle Plate: Allows the angle between the two plates to be adjusted and locked in place, useful for non-standard angles.
4. Box Angle Plate: Consists of six plates arranged to form a box, providing multiple clamping surfaces and easy rotation of the workpiece.
5. Swivel Angle Plate: Equipped with a degree scale and locking mechanism to adjust and set angles precisely.
6. Cast Iron T-Slotted Angle Plate: Features T-slots for vertical mounting and precise alignment, often used in large machines and heavy-duty applications.

How Are Angle Plates Classified?

Angle plates are classified into first-class and second-class based on their quality and precision. First-class angle plates are highly accurate and used in tool rooms, while second-class plates are used in general machine shops.

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How Do I Maintain an Angle Plate?

To maintain an angle plate, clean it before and after use to remove debris and contaminants. Apply a protective oil to prevent rust and corrosion. Regularly check for any signs of wear or damage to ensure continued precision.

Can Angle Plates Be Used with Any Machine?

Yes, angle plates can be used with various machines including lathes, shapers, grinders, and drilling machines. They provide a stable and precise setup for machining operations.

How Do I Choose the Right Angle Plate for My Application?

Consider the following factors:

1. Type of Work: Determine if you need a plain, slotted, adjustable, or specialized angle plate.
2. Size and Capacity: Ensure the angle plate's dimensions and load capacity match your workpiece and machine requirements.
3. Precision Needs: Select a first-class plate for high-precision tasks and a second-class plate for general applications.

What Is the Difference Between a Plain Angle Plate and a Slotted Angle Plate?

A plain angle plate has no slots and is used for straightforward clamping and positioning. A slotted angle plate has grooves or slots that allow for adjustable clamping and additional flexibility in securing the workpiece.

What Is a Box Angle Plate, and When Should It Be Used?

A box angle plate has a box-like structure with six plates, allowing for clamping on multiple sides. It is used when multiple clamping options and the ability to rotate the workpiece are needed, such as in large machines or for complex machining operations.

Are There Any Special Considerations for Using Swivel Angle Plates?

Swivel angle plates are designed for precise angle adjustments. Ensure the degree scale is calibrated correctly and that the locking mechanism is securely fastened to maintain accuracy during operations.

I want to use this angle plate for bolting something to the cross-slide of my mini-lathe.  Purchased many years ago, but finally found a use for it'after finding it in the bottom of a drawer.

The backside where all the nuts and washers will go is quite rough and I'd like to neaten things up so that fixings don't work loose.  (And to keep up appearances with Mrs. Bucket.)

I seek advice for doing this without destroying my tooling.  I can't tell if the roughness is cast, or sand that's been painted over.  Am I going to ruin my Dremel stones on this?

Mike

On MikeK Said:

Thanks for the replies, gents.

I can't get a finger sander just yet (I do want one, though).

What I just noticed is that the four slots aren't evenly spaced.  It probably should have been one for the reject pile.  I'll make some simple T-nuts and ruin a couple Dremel stones today.

Mike

Maybe not. Angle plates, like many lathe faceplates,  usually have cast-in slots, so they are not precision machined and may not necessarily be in exact positions. Patterns move around in the casting process, moulds distort, and castings distort.

Hence, T-nuts are usually not recommended. T-nuts are designed to fit in a machined T slot. Faceplates and angle plates with rough cast slots and uneven back surfaces work better with plain flat washers and nuts to grip on to the uneven surfaces and cock at an angle if one side is higher than the other. Plus you get to use the very ends of the slots which T nuts will not access.

A Dremel grinder seems rather small for such clean up work. Those expensive little grinding tips don't last very long on a relatively larger job. If you don't have a regular size die grinder (which most of us don't) you can buy the regular size die grinder tips with the 1/4' /6mm shanks and a stone from half to one inch diamater,  cheap enough and spin it in an electric drill. Most corded drills will spin fast enough for it to work ok for this type of clean up work.

There is a lot can be done too with abrasive flap wheels in the pistol drill, and others in fitted to 4' angle grinder etc, although they wont get into sharp corners. For knocking out/off that congealed casting sand and iron dust, lot can be done too with a cold chisel or even a welder's chipping hammer, or even just then end of a handy bit of steel bar ground to a bit of a point.

Don't feel too bad about the poor quality of the finish on your angle plate. My mate bought a not-cheap mid-sized Chinese milling machine from a reputable supplier to industry and hobbyists that had the same: painted over casting sand and iron dust still stuck to the castings. Including INSIDE the gearbox. Now, that took some fettling ' in the original sense of the word, as it happens.

While you are at it, run a try-square over your angle plates and make sure they are actually square. Not all are created equal and some could use a touch up with a fly cutter to make them truly square. That matters more than the state of the cast surfaces.

I have both 6' and 8' fully machined Eclipse angle plates. Their slots are really out of proportion for their size as they are about 17mm wide at the machined face although casting draft reduces this to about 15mm. The slots are also extend too close to the fillet between the faces so large, say M12 or M14 bolts would not be able to get to the inner end of the long slots.

I use mostly 6, 8 and 10mm fixings and have accrued an assortment of washers and wide T nuts so the plates are used frequently, but the out of proportion aspect of the plates is mildly annoying. I am not averse to making modifications to manufactured/branded tooling even if newly purchased although on this angle plate I have just added two tapped holes on one edge but I cannot remember why now.

Like Jason I prefer the fully machined type of angle plate and the 4' angle plate I bought at a show about 10 years ago has not been used although several times I have been tempted to take a hacksaw to it and remove the webs. I cannot imagine a machining set up where the strength given by the webs would be essential or beneficial.

If Mike K has milling facilities then he could make a silk purse of of his cows ear.

Ian P

You wil see my angle plates in use in just about every built thread I post and the vive comes on and off many times in a build but just to expand what I said last night

Two plates bolted together and to the table with M10 fixings as that is what fits the 12mm slot width of the mill's table but M6 used to hold work to the plate. Bolted together in a U shape and the upper one angled to suit the job, the U shape is often more compact than the only option of 'Z' with webbed plates so ideal for smaller hobby machines

Same job different setup again M10 to table and M6 to work. Note that the flat back without webs allows me to place G clamps anywhere I want if there is no may to use the slots.

Not sure I would have wanted to use just M6 fixings on a job like this . The M10 clamp sets also make good machinists jacks

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